The Cosmic pattern in detail

This week, I suggest you get ready for spring with my new pattern the Cosmic jacket! It's a loose-fitting, straight-cut jacket that's extremely comfortable! What I like most about this design are its clean lines, in which I've hidden invisible pockets 😉

What's more, theCosmicjacket will see you through spring and into the chilly summer nights. It'scomfortable and stylish, easy to wear and easy to mix and match with your existing wardrobe.

In these photos, I'm wearing it with mySaxa shirtand mom jeans. But on sunny days, you can also wear it with your little handmade dresses!

Finally, you will also see that a number of technical points are covered. For example, you will learn how to sewtopstitching, capucine tabs, and even a collar! But don't panic,here is a step-by-step video 👇👇👇

Recommended fabrics for sewing theCosmic jacket

I recommend using fabrics that are suitable for mid-season jackets. For my versions, I used ribbed velvet and very dense denim. But you could also usegabardineorjacquard.

For the lining (for the pockets), you can use a classic "lining" fabric, cotton poplin, or even the same fabric you used for the jacket. However, be aware that with this last option, there will be a lot of extra thickness under the sewing machine...

Finally, regarding the materials, for my denim version, I used seamlessbuttonsthatscrew into the fabric.

And for my velvet version, I used seamless snapfasteners.

Level of difficulty

This jacket has many technical features. This pattern therefore quite difficult, but don't panic! In addition to thestep-by-stepvideo, the instruction guide is very detailed. In the following paragraphs, you will discover the most complex points covered.

Topstitching

There are lots of them on this jacket, and they add greatly to the charm of the garment. For my version, I used contrasting yellow thread andaspecial topstitching foot to ensure my seams were nice and straight. But if you're worried about your seams not being straight, you can use thread in the same color as your fabric or even patterned fabric to "hide" any imperfections.

Otherwise, if you are a pro at straight stitching and want more noticeable topstitching, you can buy ultra-strongthreadthatis thicker than regular thread. The only downside is the price!

Alternatively, you candouble the upper thread on your machine. To do this, place a bobbin on the bobbin holder, then thread both threads (the one on the bobbin holder and the one on the regular bobbin) through the needle. This method will give you more visible topstitching!

You will also notice that the topstitching is double. Personally, I sewed them separately, but there aredouble needles for jeansthatwill save you time and improve precision.

The capuchin paw

This slit at the bottom of the sleeve is a rather "high-end" and very durable finish. However, it requires a bit of precision, especially since the fabric is thick. My advice for success: don't forget to carefully transfer each mark onto the fabric.

Buttonholes

Yes, it can be scary on thick fabric, so here are a few tips. First, test it out on a scrap of fabric that has been interfaced and folded in half. This way, you can see how your machine reacts to this thickness and adjust the thread tension and/or stitch length. To help your fabric slide more easily under the machine, you can place tissue paper underneath the fabric. In any case, don't hesitate to use a seam ripper to unpick any unsuccessful buttonholes; the advantage of thick fabrics is that buttonholes don't usually damage the fabric.

Finally, if your machine does not allow you to make proper buttonholes, I suggest three other solutions:

• Use snap fasteners that can be attached without sewing. I really likethePrym "Anorak" type. That's the type of fastener I used for my velvet version.
• Go to a professional who has an industrial machine to make buttonholes.
• And for the most courageous: make the buttonholes by hand. 😅

Choosing the right size with theCosmic jacket

What I really like about jackets is that choosing the right size is much easier than with traditional clothing. The reason for this is simple! Generally, a jacket is not as fitted as a dress, for example, so there is less chance of choosing the wrong size. Personally, of all the clothes I sewed when I first started sewing, the ones I still wear today are coats and jackets. So that shows you how easy it is to choose your size. I talk about this in this video:

As I mentioned above, theCosmic jacketisloose-fitting and has a straight cut. So tochooseyour size, measure your bust and hips. Then choose the larger size. For example, if your bust measurement is 40 and your hip measurement is 42, choose size 42.

So, what do you think of theCosmicjacket?Head to the store to order the pattern

Happy sewing, and see you soon!

Cadia