How to adapt a pattern ?

September 20, 2019

How to adapt a pattern ? If you are used to sewing your own clothes, you have probably already had to modify patterns to suit your body shape or style. Some of you onInstagram have even told me that modifying a pattern scares pattern . That's why I wanted to write this article to help you with this step.

Of course, the list I am about to present is not exhaustive. I am discussing the modifications I have already encountered, and each pattern, like each body, has its own particularities. In this article, I have also listed the questions I have been asked most often!

Why adapt a pattern

Does a pattern be altered because it doesn't fit properly? Not necessarily! Just because you cut out a pattern doesn't mean it will necessarily be tailor-made. In fact,patternsare designed according to standard sizes and ease values. When necessary, they should therefore be altered according to your measurements and comfort criteria.

Is modifying a pattern systematic?

Fortunately, no! I would say thatif you are taller or shorter than average, you may need to lengthen or shorten the pattern.

Next, it is often necessary to modify the patternwhen the model is adjusted. In this case, it may be necessary to grade between several sizes.

If you are new to sewing...

If you are new to sewing, I recommend starting withpatterns that are not fitted. Examples:

ruffled skirts,
sweatshirts(avoidjerseyandopt for interlock, which is much easier to run in),
or paperbagshorts/pants(with an elastic waistband, no zipper).

Modifying patterns in practice

To begin with, use patterns or clothes that fit you well.

If you are using a new pattern are unsure whether it will fit you,feel free to lay it on top of a pattern you know well and that fits you well. Then note any differences.

You can also use clothes that fit you well as a guide. For example, if you are unsure about the length of a dress,place the pattern the dresstosee if you need to lengthen or shorten it.

⚠️ Please note :whenmaking these comparisons,take into account the seam allowancesthatmay or may not already be included in the pattern.

Finally,I strongly advise you to do some test runs, i.e., test on "old" fabric to see where adjustments are needed.

Adapting a pattern grade between several sizes

For some models, you may sometimes find that your bust measurement differs from your waist measurement. To grade between two sizes, it is therefore important to know the location of:

The bust line:thisis roughly just above the dart line. If there are no darts, it is at the widest point of the bust below the armhole.
The waistline:itis not always indicated on patterns. Buton fitted dresses and tops, it is located on the smallest horizontal line of the bust.
The hip line:onflared styles, it is not easy to identify (but fortunately, with this type of cut, adjustments are often unnecessary). For straight skirts and dresses, the hip line is located at the bottom of the curve of the side seams.

Example of pattern . Here we can see the markings that allow the pattern to be adjusted. — An example of pattern from bottom to top: the bust line, the waistline, and the hip line.

Once you have identified these lines, you can grade between several sizes. To see an example of pattern adaptation, I have detailedthe procedure for my Lalaland dress in an entire article.

Lengthen or shorten a circle skirt or a flared skirt

To lengthen or shorten a circle skirt or a flared skirt, you have two options: either keep the same skirt width or alter it.

If you want to keep the same width, lengthen the skirt in the middle. To do this, draw a horizontal line in the middle of the pattern piece. Then cut the pattern half along this line.Tolengthen the skirt, glue the top half onto a sheet of paper. Then glue the second half underneath, offsetting it by the desired amount. Then trace the skirt.To shorten this type of skirt, you can proceed in the same way, but instead of adding paper, overlap the excess centimeters.

Example of lengthening a circle skirt while maintaining the same skirt width

Example of shortening a circle skirt while maintaining the same skirt width

If you want to increase/decrease the width when lengthening/shortening the skirt, simply lengthen/shorten the pattern the bottom by the desired amount.

Lengthen a circle skirt from the bottom — Example of lengthening a circle skirt from the bottom (this increases the fullness of the skirt)

shorten a circle skirt at the bottom — Example of shortening a circle skirt at the bottom (this reduces the fullness of the skirt)

Lengthening or shortening a straight skirt

To lengthen or shorten a straight skirt, simply add or remove a few inches from the bottom of the dress. However, if there is a detail at the bottom of the skirt (such as a slit), you cannot do this or you will lose that detail. In this case, you will need to locate the hip line. It is found at the bottom of the rounded side seams.

Then draw a horizontal line between this hip line and the hem. Cut out the pattern this line.To lengthen the skirt, glue the top half onto a sheet of paper. Then glue the second half underneath, shifting it by the desired amount. Trace the skirt again.

Adapting a pattern lengthening a straight skirt

To shorten this type of skirt, you can proceed in the same way, but instead of adding paper, overlap the excess centimeters.

Adjusting a pattern shortening or lengthening the bust

To modify the pattern, start bylocating the bust line and the waistline. Then, draw a horizontal line between these two lines.

Then cut out the pattern this line.To lengthen the bust, glue the upper half onto a sheet of paper, and glue the second half underneath, shifting it by the desired amount. Then trace the bust.

To shorten the bust, you can proceed in the same way, but instead of adding paper, overlap the excess centimeters.

There you go, I hope these few examples of how to adapt a pattern will help pattern !

See you soon,

Cadia

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