Sewing tutorial: how to sew an invisible pocket?
Today, I'm sharing a technical tutorial that will show you how to sew an invisible pocket. In fact, from a design perspective, we tend to refer tothis asa reserved pocket in sewing.
An invisible pocket is very practicalwhen you don't want to detract from the style of a garment. It therefore hasa purelyfunctional role,as itis discreet and virtually invisible. For example, I used this finish for my Mirage jacket:
How do you position this invisible pocket on a garment?
If you are sewing a garment from a pattern does not have pockets, you may be wondering where to position this pocket. In fact, it should be positionedat the side seam of the front and backofyour garment.
Then, regarding the height of this pocket on the garment, I advise you to look at how your existing clothes are made. For example, to position the invisible pockets on mycoat, I measured the distance between the underarm and the pocket of a coat I already had. Then, I transferred this distance to my cut fabric pieces.
Does the pattern need to be modified?
I recommend leavinga 2 cm seam allowance (instead of 1 cm) on the sides of the front and back. This means that the pattern to pattern modified: add 1 cm if the seam allowances are included in the pattern, or 2 cm if the seam allowances are not included.
Which fabric should you choose for this invisible pocket?
It will depend on the fabric you use for your sewing project:
- If the fabric is thin, you can use the same fabric for the pockets.
- If the fabric is thick, I recommend using a fabric that you would use for a lining. For example, cotton poplin or viscose.
In fact, the fabric must bethin enoughso thatit does not create unsightly bulges on the garment. It must also bestrong enoughsothat the invisible pocket does not tear prematurely.
I emphasize this point because it can really look awful if you choose the wrong fabric. For example, I remember making a dress out of slightly thick wool jersey, and I made the mistake of using the same fabric for the invisible pockets. The result: you can see the outline of the pockets on my thighs 😢
In the end, I only wore it once and couldn't be bothered to redo everything (yes, it's more fun to sew than to unpick, especially when it comes to jersey 😅).
Come on, let's get started. I'll explain all the steps with pictures and videos!
Sizing the invisible pocket
💡 The explanations in this article referto makinga single pocket. For the pocket on the other side, you will need to repeat all the steps below.
To measure the pockets, take an A4 sheet of paper and draw a 2 cm margin (this will be your seam allowance) along one of the long sides. Then place your hand on the sheet, positioning your wrist on the margin. Your wrist should be at an angle to the margin (as when your wrist is at an angle when you put your hands in your pockets). Then trace the outline of your hand, drawing about 3 cm away (this outline takes into account the 1 cm seam allowance plus about 2 cm of ease).
Next, cut out this sheet, which will serve as your pattern. Using pins, position the pattern on the lining or fabric of the garment folded in half. Then cut out the fabric; you will now have two pieces of fabric that will form an invisible pocket.
Sewing the invisible pocket
💡 I didn't do this for this tutorial, butbefore you start,serge or overlock the sides of the front and backofyour garment.
Step 1:
Take one of the two pocket bottoms and position it right sides together and edge to edge on the front of the garment (where you have marked the height of the pocket). Stitch 1 cm along the side, leaving 1 cm at both ends(you will understand why in step 3). Then do the same with the other pocket bottom on the back of the garment.
Step 2:
Take the front of the garment, fold the bottom of the pocket outward, and topstitch the seam allowance on the right side, leaving 1 cm at the ends. Do the same with the back of the garment.
Step 3:
Place the front and back pieces right sides together, matching the sides and pocket bottoms. Then pin the pocket bottoms together and stitch them 1 cm from the edge. Overcast or serge all the rounded edges. This step is made easier by the 1 cm seam allowances left in steps 1 and 2.
Step 4:
Next, pin the sides of the garment together, right sides facing. Stitch from the top with a seam allowance of 2 cm. When you reach the first pocket opening mark, make a backstitch (this will reinforce the pocket in an area where it will be subject to a lot of wear). Then, without raising the needle, lift the presser foot and pivot the fabric. Sew the rounded edges of the pocket a second time, making sure to sew over the existing seam.
When you reach the end of the pocket, rotate the fabric again, make a backstitch, and finish sewing the side of the garment 2 cm from the edge.
Note: if you forgot to leave a 2 cm seam allowance, you can also stitch with a 1 cm seam allowance. However, this will not look as neat. The 2 cm seam allowance hides the understitched part of the pocket.
Now you have an invisible pocket! All you have to do is repeat these steps for the other side of the garment!
See you soon!
Cadia