How to sew an embroidered collar onto a sweatshirt? - Les lubies de Cadia

How to sew an embroidered collar onto a sweatshirt?

Today I'm showing you my new sweatshirt that I customized with a broderie anglaise collar. This addition gives a chic touch to this casual garment.

sweatshirt with embroidered collar on model

Can this embroidered collar be worn with all sweatshirts?

Yesterday onInstagram, someone asked me if the collar gets stuck when you put it on. Indeed, broderie anglaise fabric is not elastic, unlike sweatshirt fabric.So you shouldn't choose a sweatshirt with a crew neck, unless you use an elastic ribbon.

embroidered collar and faux button placket

Which English embroidery should I use?

For my part, I bought my embroidery ribbon in the haberdashery section atTissus Reine.The ribbon should not be too wide, otherwise it will not stand up but will fall onto the sweatshirt. For the model you see in the photos, I opted for a width of 5.5 cm.

Next, you have a choice between two types of bands: gathered and non-gathered. Since a collar is circular, you must useagathered bandso thatit wraps around the collar properly. You therefore have two options: 

  • buy a pre-ruched band (this is the case with the model I used).
  • Buy unruffled tape; in this case, allowfor twice the length of pre-ruffled tape. You will then need to ruffle it yourself. If you don't know how to do this, you can watchthetutorial to learn how to sew ruffles. 

Can we use a material other than broderie anglaise?

Oh yes! I trust your imagination!

For my part, I also made something with a strip oflacethatI gathered myself.

sweatshirt with lace collar

How long should the embroidery band be?

To determine the length to use, simply measure the circumference of the collar at the seam between the sweatshirt and the collar. 

wool sweater
sweatshirt neckline
neck measurement

Next, it depends on the embroidery you have chosen:

  • if it is already gathered: add 2 cm to allow for seam allowances.
  • If it is not yet gathered: double the measured length and
    add 2 cm to allow for seam allowances.

Be careful, if you sewed the sweatshirt yourself, don't start with the pattern piece pattern to make the collar. That's the mistake I made. When the collar is cut out, it is smaller than its final length. It is when it is sewn to the sweatshirt, and thanks to its elasticity, that it reaches its final length. It is therefore important to measure the collar circumference on the finished sweatshirt

Steps to follow to sew the embroidered collar

Now that you're ready, we can move on to sewing!

First, you will need to close the neckline by sewing it onto itself. To do this, fold the strip right sides together and edge to edge. Use pins to hold the fabric in place, then stitch along the cut edges 1 cm from the edge. 

embroidered collar stitching

Then cut off the excess fabric about 5 mm from the seam and overcast.

Hey there! Your collar is ready. At this stage,I strongly advise you to try the collar on to see if your head fits through it. It would be a shame to sew it onto the sweatshirt and then not be able to put it on. If it's too small, opt for an elastic band instead; I know that lace ones are available. 

sewing an embroidered collar
You can see here that there are two joining seams instead of one. Yes, I got the length wrong, so I had to patch it up!

Now, position the embroidered collar edge to edge on the back of the sweatshirt collar. For a more aesthetic look, position the seam joining the embroidered collar in the middle of the back of the sweatshirt. Secure everything in place with pins. 

collar pinning
English embroidery collar (pinning)

To sew this garment and maintain maximum elasticity, you will need to use azigzag stitch. In addition, the seam should be sewn between the neckline seam of the sweatshirt and the overlocked edge of the neckline (i.e., within the seam allowance).

sewing a collar

In this photo, you can see that the white thread (used to sew the embroidery) is positioned between the stitching on the hoodie collar and the overlocked edge of the hoodie collar.

There you go! Your collar is ready and your sweatshirt is customized . Areyou happy with it? 

embroidered collar sweatshirt

If you are looking pattern a pattern , check out the Félix sweatshirt in my store:

Félix leopard sweater

See you soon!

Cadia



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